Specialized dirt substrates just sounds way too messy to me. Iron-based plant substrates can get stuck on magnetic algae scrapers and scratch the glass. I use Estes Marine Sand (aka Stoney River and Ultra Reef) and have never had problems keeping plants happy with it. I’ve never had CO2 and super intense lighting to need it. I’ve never used a special plant substrate. Once you get it figured out you can back off the testing a little and just test periodically to see if the tank’s needs have changed. Test frequently when you start dosing something new. Again, the system isn’t used to the extra nutrients and the plants need to adjust to start taking advantage of it. Start with half of what you need, it is easier to add more than to take any out. Never dose something without testing for it and knowing you actually need to dose it. If the tests show something is inadequate then buy a supplement for that specific chemical and dose as needed. In most tanks, there will be enough nitrate and phosphate, but they are worth checking. Now you can start looking at the things known to limit plant growth: nitrate, phosphate, iron, GH, KH, and CO2. It may be appropriate to break my usual rule of only testing nitrate. If you start to add fertilizer twice weekly instead of once and after a month you see no improvement, then step back down to once weekly, that is not your limiting factor.Īt this point, the tank’s limiting factor may be one of a few things. This is best done after a water change so that you don’t remove it with a water change and it’s there all week for the plants to use.ĭon’t just add supplements if you don’t see a difference. This means you may just be adding 1/4-1/2 dose each week. Start with less of the general fertilizer than you think you need, the system isn’t used to the extra nutrients, so you need to give it time to adjust. At this point, the general additive should be all that you need. AquaVitro products are very good and definitely a great, high-end option for planted as well as reef tank supplements. AquaVitro is a top-shelf brand made by Seachem that is not available online (the company will not sell to anyone who tries to sell it online). This will work with inert substrates such as the Estes Marine Sand (aka Stoney River and Ultra Reef) that I recommend for almost any tank.Īs for the general liquid fertilizer, I prefer either Seachem Flourish Comprehensive Supplement or AquaVitro Envy. Just follow the directions, they will turn any substrate into one with the nutrients needed for root feeders such as swords. I would start with two things: root tabs and a general liquid fertilizer. You can adjust the color and intensity to get exactly what you want.Īs you increase your light, the balance will need more nutrients. On larger tanks, I go straight to black box LEDs made for reef tanks. Quick Summary: On smaller tanks, something like the Nicrew LED is great. For a complete explanation of all things lighting, please read the Guide to Lighting an Aquarium. Upgrading to something along the lines of an adjustable LED fixture is ideal. This might be enough for the least demanding plants, but even then they won’t usually do that well and most likely you and your tank will outgrow the basic lights very quickly. Most standard light fixtures will have nothing more than one standard output bulb or basic LEDs. When you first start with live plants, your limiting factor will almost certainly be lighting. There’s no point in adding fertilizers or CO2 if the light is too weak. As you and the tank progress, the limiting factor will change. You will always have a limiting factor in the tank. It will never be perfect, but doing more of one because another is lacking will only keep things more out of balance. Lighting, nutrients, temperature, and CO2 all need to be kept in balance. The most important thing to understand with live plants is that everything needs to be kept in balance.
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